You've turned the shower off, gone to bed, and can still hear water hitting the tiles. Buying a new shower head might seem like the obvious fix, but it won't stop water getting past a faulty mixer valve. Before you reach for a spanner, find out whether you're dealing with a leaking connection, trapped water draining away, or a valve that isn't shutting properly.
Find Where the Leak Is Coming From
A bathroom that drips all night can send you straight to the hardware shop. Replace the head without testing first, though, and you could end up with a new fixture making exactly the same noise. Start with the mixer closed, not with the shower head removed.
Dry the head, shower arm, hose connections and wall fitting. Run the shower briefly, switch it off fully, then dry the outside again so you're not mistaking splash water for leakage. Leave it undisturbed for several minutes and watch where fresh water appears.
Read the leak before choosing the repair
Water that drains briefly and stops may be water left inside the arm or hose. Persistent dripping from the spray face is different: water may still be passing through the mixer cartridge or tap valve.
The Australian Government's water-efficiency guidance recommends checking for household leaks, including using meter readings overnight. Record the meter before bed and again before anyone uses water, making sure taps, irrigation and water-using appliances stay off. A changed reading indicates unexplained consumption somewhere on the property, not proof that the shower is responsible.
Leak symptoms, likely sources and next steps
| Symptom | Likely source | Next step |
|---|---|---|
| Drip from spray face with mixer fully closed | Worn cartridge or valve upstream | Stop, check the mixer and call a plumber if it persists |
| Water at head-to-arm join or hose connection | Flat or perished washer or O-ring | Replace the washer and reseal the thread where the connection requires it |
| Drip only after the shower is used | Water trapped in the arm or hose | Dry the fitting and test again after it has drained |
| Water from wall, tile joins or ceiling | Concealed pipework or waterproofing | Stop and call a licensed plumber |
For unexplained moisture, JMJ Plumbing's residential leak detection and repair is a useful resource for understanding why locating the source comes before repairing visible damage. For local bathroom symptoms, our shower leak detection guidance for Melbourne explains the distinction between fixture leakage and a broader shower leak.
Diagnostic rule: A leaking joint identifies an escape point. It doesn't prove that the mixer is shutting off properly.
Proceed with a connection repair when you've identified a faulty joint and the flow stops after the mixer closes. If fresh water keeps arriving with the mixer off, investigate the valve as well.
Shut Off the Water and Gather Your Tools
Don't rely on the mixer handle alone to isolate the supply, especially if your diagnosis suggests it isn't sealing. Locate an accessible shower isolation valve, or use the property's main water shut-off. Tell anyone else at home before interrupting the supply.
Isolate and drain safely
- Close the isolation valve or main supply. Don't force a seized valve with a wrench. If it won't operate normally, stop and arrange plumbing assistance.
- Open the shower briefly to release pressure and drain the line. Keep clear of hot water and expect residual water from the hose.
- Return the mixer to off. Leave it there while you remove and refit the head.
Put a towel over the shower waste before handling small components. It catches dropped washers and protects the tray or tiles from tools.
Gather these items before loosening anything:
- Adjustable wrench and cloth or rubber pads: Grip the connection without marking its finish.
- Correct replacement washer or O-ring: Match the old seal's diameter, thickness and profile. Take it to a hardware shop if you're unsure.
- PTFE thread tape: Use it on connections designed to seal at the threads, not automatically on every hose nut.
- Small flat screwdriver: Gently lift an accessible washer without gouging its seat.
- Towel and bucket: Catch residual water and keep the work area dry.
- Soft toothbrush and white vinegar: Remove accessible mineral deposits, provided the manufacturer permits vinegar on the finish.
Photograph the assembly before removing washers, screens or flow-control components. Their order matters.
Remove without twisting the wall fitting
Try unscrewing the head anticlockwise by hand. If it's stuck, wrap the connection in cloth and apply gentle wrench pressure to the intended gripping surface. Don't use the shower arm as a lever.
If the arm moves at the wall instead of the head loosening, stop. More force can turn a straightforward maintenance task into a concealed connection repair.
Before proceeding, confirm that the supply is isolated, the line has drained, the waste is covered and the assembly has been photographed.
How to Replace the Washer and Reseal the Thread
The washer and the thread don't always do the same job. A flat washer can seal against a smooth face while the surrounding threads hold the connection together. Other fittings rely on a sealed threaded joint.
Identify the connection type before applying tape. Packing a washer-sealed hose connection with tape can prevent proper assembly without addressing the damaged seal.
Follow the sealing arrangement
The Rapid Service Plumbing leaking-shower guide recommends approximately four to five clockwise wraps of PTFE tape for a threaded connection requiring resealing, followed by hand-tightening and only a small final wrench turn. Use that method where thread sealing is appropriate, while keeping any washer or O-ring in its intended position.
Confirm that the water is isolated. Briefly check that the shower no longer delivers water, then return the mixer to off. Don't start dismantling because someone else says they closed the main.
Remove the head with a cloth-wrapped wrench if hand pressure isn't enough. Keep the wrench square to the fitting and turn gently anticlockwise. Stop if the wall arm rotates, the fitting deforms or the required force keeps increasing.
Inspect the inlet washer and any O-ring. Look for flattening, cracking, brittleness or a seal displaced from its groove. Check the mating surface too, because a fresh washer won't seal reliably against debris or a damaged seat.
Fit a correctly sized replacement seal. Seat it flat without twisting or stretching it into place. Don't stack washers to compensate for a poor fit, and don't substitute an O-ring merely because its outside diameter looks similar.
Clean the mating surfaces and male threads. Lift away old tape and brush off loose deposits without scratching sealing faces. If the threads are cracked, badly corroded or stripped, tape isn't a repair for the damaged metal or plastic.
Apply PTFE tape where the fitting requires a thread seal. Wind clockwise when looking directly at the open end of the male fitting, so tightening won't unravel it. Keep the pipe opening clear and don't leave loose tape hanging into the water path.
Refit by hand before using the wrench. The head should engage smoothly rather than needing force from the start. Once it's seated, make only a small final wrench adjustment if the fitting's instructions permit it.
Over-tightening can distort the washer, scratch plated finishes and crack fittings. There's no universal torque setting for every shower head, particularly across plastic nuts, metal bodies and swivel assemblies. Use the manufacturer's specified torque where one is supplied; don't invent a setting or tighten until the fitting can't move.
The sequence below summarises the main handling points.
Check the condition, not just the tightness
If you're also cleaning the spray plate, use a soft brush and a finish-compatible cleaner. Don't scrape plated surfaces with the screwdriver or remove the flow controller to make cleaning easier unless the product instructions specifically allow removal and refitting.
A head washer won't repair a faulty upstream valve. Our guidance on what to do if the tap keeps dripping helps distinguish a sealing problem at the outlet from one inside the tap mechanism.
Before restoring supply, the head should sit squarely, the seal should remain seated and the arm should be stable. A successful repair will then give you a dry connection and a smooth spray without needing repeated tightening.
Test the Repair and Decide Your Next Move
A joint that looks dry immediately after assembly hasn't passed the test yet. Restore the supply slowly, run the shower through its normal pressure and temperature range, then dry the connection completely. Check the underside as well, because water can collect there before forming a visible drip.
A dry paper towel makes slight weeping easier to spot than a quick glance at a shiny fitting.
Check sealing and shut-off separately
Leave the fitting undisturbed, then inspect it again for renewed moisture. Touch a fresh paper towel to the head connection, hose nuts and accessible arm connection individually. This helps identify the actual source instead of following water that has run along the metal.
Close the mixer and allow residual water to drain. If the spray face continues receiving water while the repaired connection stays dry, the head repair hasn't resolved the shut-off fault. Cartridge, spindle or tap-seal servicing belongs with a plumber rather than another round of tape.
A watertight connection and a properly closing valve are separate pass conditions. You need both.
If moisture appears at the wall, stop using the shower and arrange an assessment. Where the problem involves the shower base, our certified tradespeople can repair a leaking shower base and help prevent leaks from happening.
Measure flow without chasing maximum output
Catch the spray in a bucket of known capacity and time how long it takes to reach that volume. Divide the collected litres by the elapsed time expressed in minutes to calculate litres per minute. Use the same mixer position when comparing results.
Greater Western Water's bathroom water-saving guidance identifies 15–25 litres per minute as inefficient, while a WELS 5-star shower head can use as little as 4.5 litres per minute. Treat those as efficiency reference points, not a promise that every bathroom will perform identically.
If the spray is uneven, clean mineral deposits before blaming the seal. If water escapes from a joint, address the seal rather than trying to improve the spray by loosening the fitting.
Use this video as a visual companion, while following the instructions for your particular shower head.
Your repair passes when:
- Shut-off works: The spray face stops dripping after residual water drains.
- Connections stay dry: No fresh moisture appears during operation or afterwards.
- Flow is usable: The spray is consistent and appropriate for the product.
Keep the receipt, photograph the replacement seal packaging and note the repair date. A failed joint test warrants checking seal placement and connection condition, not automatically applying more torque. Persistent outlet dripping or concealed moisture warrants a plumber.
When to Replace the Head or Call a Plumber
Repair a serviceable connection, replace a damaged head, and refer supply or concealed faults to a licensed plumber. Those choices solve different problems. A more efficient head can improve water use during showers, but it can't make a worn mixer valve shut properly.
A cracked head body, damaged sealing seat or stripped head-side thread can justify replacement. An intact head with an accessible worn washer may only need a suitable replacement seal. Don't buy a new fixture because its spray feels weaker than an older model.
Choose the right repair and person
Repair, replace or call a plumber by case
| Case | Likely fix | Who should do it |
|---|---|---|
| Drip at head-to-arm joint, mixer closed | Replace washer or O-ring and reseal thread where required; investigate continuing supply | Homeowner for accessible maintenance only |
| Drip from spray face with mixer closed | Service cartridge or valve | Licensed plumber |
| Water from wall, tile joins or ceiling | Locate concealed leak and arrange pipework or waterproofing repairs | Licensed plumber, with appropriate waterproofing trades where needed |
| Any work changing supply pipework or mixer | Install a compliant product with a certificate where required | Licensed plumber |
A removable shower-head seal is a different proposition from opening a wall, altering supply pipework or servicing a mixer. Don't treat the latter jobs as an extension of tightening the head. Bathroom repairs involving several trades also need someone to coordinate the plumbing and waterproofing boundaries.
Our bathroom renovation plumbing guide explains that broader fit-out context. We're fully licensed and insured.
Check compliance before buying
The Victorian Building and Plumbing Commission's regulatory framework sets out Victoria's plumbing requirements, including required WaterMark certification and compliance certificates for plumbing work costing $750 or more. Check WaterMark status for product compliance and WELS labelling for water efficiency, rather than treating either mark as a substitute for the other.
Keep receipts and product details so the installed model can be identified later. Choose a head compatible with the existing connection, available pressure and hot-water system.
Lower flow isn't automatically a defect. Before replacing an otherwise sound fixture, check accessible inlet screens and spray outlets for debris; leave supply-pressure diagnosis, pressure-reducing valve checks and pipework flushing to a plumber where required. Don't remove the flow controller to chase stronger pressure, because tampering can change performance, waste water and affect warranty coverage.
Knowing how to fix a leaking shower head starts with knowing which part needs fixing. Stop DIY when the task moves beyond an accessible fitting or when the wall connection won't remain stable.
If your shower leak involves the base, surrounding finishes or an uncertain source, we offer free in-home consultations to help you identify the appropriate repair. Visit Western Bathroom Renovations or call 1300 001 044 to discuss the symptoms and arrange an assessment.
